Last weekend I pulled the plenum, the timing belt, and the cams. I replaced the lifters, installed 2 manual cams in place of the automatics, and installed a greddy B-spec B/C. All work was done over the coarse of 2 beautiful days and in no rush. Everything was cleaned and inspected. I paid particular attention to the idlers and found no defects. All new gaskets and seals were used. All specs were checked regarding the lifters and cam journals. As I mentioned the belt and pulleys were at about 16K and I was still able to see the alignment marks on the belt. The tensioner was set and checked and the engine was turned through by hand 2 complete cycles and rechecked prior to replacing the covers and closing it up. I even used a spring scale on the belt per the manual, I'll bet you hardly anyone does that. Everything was torqued using a freshly certified and calibrated torque wrench I borrowed from work. As for the torque of that bolt, every fastener has a torque value. If it's not posted in the M/M you refer to a fastener spec sheet. As an aircarft tech and having to get things double checked by QC you have to know where to find this info. I believe there's a torque spec sheet in the 300ZX manual. I had no doubt when I closed it up it was perfect Except that I didn't check that ONE bolt on the tensioner. Live and learn. I thought about doing what you recommend but I really need an excuse to get to that annoying exhaust manifold leak when it's cold. As I write this I'm waiting for an answer from da boss if I can take the boroscope home tonight. That would be a real time saver as I could look right at the valves through the intake plenum and the spark plug boss. We have 2 here at work and the new one has a printer attached so we can send pics of engine stuff back to Rolls Royce. So the old one doesn't get used that often.